Mesa Verde to Page ARIZONA.

Track - Intro. The XX

"Well me don't swim too tough, so me don't go in the water too deep." Bob Marley.

Day 71.

 Left early again and enjoyed more spectacular views as daylight broke in the mountains. Arrived at Mesa Verde by 8am. The brand new welcome centre was located at the foot of the mountain and we bought tickets for the tours. It was then another hours steep drive up into the national park where the cliff dwellings were located.

Amazingly, about 1400 yrs ago, the ancestral puebloans had built elaborate stone communities in the sheltered alcoves of canyon walls. They were discovered by some cow ranchers looking for lost stock in the 1800s and they were estimated to have been vacant for 500 yrs. Our tour was great and really interesting.

It was also quite challenging as it involved four 10ft ladders and steep descents with both boys in tow and temperatures of 37 degrees. More puffing and panting but it was definately worth the effort.

We had a picnic lunch and a look around the museum and then watched dylan take his oath as a junior ranger, very moving.

We were completely and utterly over driving by the time we reached our stop off for the night in Bluff. The scenary was spectacular and we ate out at the local cafe to celebrate and as we were exhausted and couldn't be bothered to cook. Again we hit the hay nice and early.







  Day 72.

 We awoke feeling very refreshed and pottered about in the RV park for a couple of hours. We left Bluff all set up, briefly in the wrong direction, but eventually on route for Monument Valley.  It did not disappoint. The towering columns of sandstones were scattered across the horizon in all shapes and sizes including one called the Mexican Hat.

We seemed to cross in and out of Utah and Arizona several times before we arrived in Page, our stop off for the night. We enjoyed an afternoon in the indoor pool and hot tub.

Dylan was very pleased with himself as he did his first full width of the pool. We had a connection for a while but it completely disappeared by the time evening came and so our planned internet-based-research session was cancelled. Once again we opted for our blind-venturing-into-the-unknown-technique. Had a nice mexican meal in the RV.

Breckenridge to Black Canyon.

Track. Sail - Aim

"It isn't the mountain ahead that wears you out, it's the grain of sand in your shoe" Robert W Service.

Day 69.

Woke up really early for a head start before the boys were awake and before long we were on stunning mountain passes going up into Colorado. We arrived at Hoosier Pass in time breakfast, showers and then had a beautiful hike up into the snow. At an elevation of 11, 542ft (3,518m) and as a part of the Mosquito range of the Rocky Mountains, the pass was stunning and although rated easy, left us breathless in more ways than one.

After a snowball fight, we carried on to Breckenridge in the hope of finding Beth, an ex-sidmouthian.

As chance would have it we found her in her Pottery painting and art studio, right at the base of the gondola to the ski-field in the fantastically scenic town. An ideal job! she was in full swing with her teaching and our arrival was a complete surprise we wondered off into town and amused ourselves for a few hours. Becs even got her highlights done. There was a lovely playpark and river for throwing dandelions into which had been frozen solid only a month previously.

We spent the afternoon painting in the amazing studio and then had a cracking night in the comfort of Beths home, hot tub, fish tacos prepared by Chris and much to catch up on. Another highlight was Solomon's first solo roll over.

  Day 70.

A slow and stubbling start and we were off on our way again to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, north of Ouray. We broke the days driving in a town with a lovely park and had our picnic.

When we arrived at the canyon we set off on a hike along the rim to the visitors centre. We didn't quite make it all the way but it was a nice walk and we saw lots of wildlife including chipmunk and deer. We were all asleep by 8.30pm!

Santa Fe NEW MEXICO to Alamosa COLORADO.

Track -Welcome Home, son. Radical face.

"The wilderness should no longer be considered as a playground for vandals, or a rich treasure trove to be ruthlessly exploited for the personal gain of the few - to be grabbed off by whoever happens to get there first." Archie Belaney aka Grey Owl.

Day 66.

 Leaving amarillo we stopped off to checkout the Cadillac ranch. Just as we had imagined the cars are just there in a field on the side of the interstate. We did our own bit of artwork and tagged one of the cars.

We detoured off onto route 66 again and stopped in the small town of Midway. Just like eveything else on the old road it was pretty run down but we joined the large group of Brazilian bikers and had a photo. Then we made it to Tucumcari for a supermarket shop, lunch and a visit to the excellent Dinosaur museum.

It was part of the University paleontology department and featured and open window to the area where they cleaned up the fossils. Pretty cool. Pete managed not to be sick with excitment. We carried onto Santa Fe and found a gem of an RV park, all wooded and rustic. The internet worked and there was a pool which was pretty freezing but refreshing after the drive. We spoke to one of the camp staff David, a photographer, who gave us the idea of including southern Utah and Colorado in the trip. We celebrated with a film Grey Owl, and the replacement wine from Oklahoma.

Day 67

We had a lazy morning and then went to a local Children's festival in a open museum down the road. It was the New Mexicans answer to St Fagans or Morwellham Quay. There were working mills, we made tortillas on the open fire, tried oud grinding corn, sat listening to old church hymns in a hillside church, all that kind of thing.

It was lovely. There was a wolf from a local rescue centre with a man who we'd seen on TV who is into living with wolves. Later on there was dancing by a group of locals in traditional costumes including some very young girls who were very cute.

We were minutes too late for the face painting which resulted in a sharp departure to the car park for lunch. Back at the camp relaxed by the pool, did some laundry and made use of the internet again. Watched Soda Springs, not a classic. Not directed by Michelle Phiffer after all.




Day 68.

Sadly left Ranchero de Santa Fe and made our way to Taos in the mountains. The road twisted along aside the Rio Grande. A one point there was a very steep section of unpaved road causing lots of rattling in the back and Becs was getting thrown about whilst trying to keep all the cupboards closed. Sol slept through the whole thing. The Rio Grande Gorge Bridge made a good stop off for ice creams and coffee off some hippies in an old ice cream van. The bridge is the second highest in the US and the view was eye popping!

We then visited 'Earthships' a self sustaining off-grid community. The houses were made of recycled tyres, can and bottles as well as the local adobe techniques. There was a small visitors centre demonstrating some of the techniques for temperature control and water recycling. It was inspirational. After lunch we visited Taos Pueblo.

This amazing area, built in around AD 1450 and continuously inhabited ever since is the largest multistoried pueblo structure in the US. It sits under the sacred Sangre de Cristo Mountains and has the Red Willow creek running through it. The Natives who still live there and cook in outdoor 'horno' ovens open up their homes to sell artefacts and do tours around. There were lots of stray dogs and it felt like we had stepped into another world. It also felt very ethereal and spiritual. Back in the van we were on route north again across the mountain plains and arrived in Colorado.

With great difficulty we managed to find the Alamosa Welcome Centre and Elliot pointed us in the right direction with some maps and brochures.  We had a great spot with a view of the mountains after the strange thunder sand storm in the KOA campsite and enjoyed the playpark, pool and pizza on offer.

Chandler to Amarillo TEXAS

Track. 'Show me the way to Amarillo." Neil Sedaka.

"If you ever plan to motor west, travel my way, take the highway, that's the best. Get your kicks on route 66." Bobby Troup.

Day 64.

After an incredible nights sleep we made our way day to the very busy restaurant for the buffet but as there were no seats and dylan got his usual food anger we ran out to the van and sat and he had cereal on the forecourt. We used the pool and then relaxed in the room until we drove off west again. They forgot to charge us for the parking and the attendant said we were lucky and should just run for it. Brilliant.

 We arrived in Chandler by lunchtime and ate at Lucilles roadhouse, a route 66 classic. A further drive brought us to Foss Lake reservoir. In the park officethere was a fossilised mammoth tusk which was pretty impressivea and bison grazed outside. A funny stop in the local bait shop/liquor store where we picked up a bottle of the worlds worst wine, and then we parked up in the state park.

Someone eventually came round to pick up our money but it wasnt very clearly laid out. It was too hot to eat very much but we enjoyed our wine and putting the world to rights.






Day 65.

 

Woke up to flies buzzing in our ears. Pete went for a shower but returned when he discovered they were coin operated and already occupied by a cockroach. It was a short drive to Washita River animal reserve where we had a nice walk around the trail. Further down the country roads was the Washita Battlefield National Historic site, opened in 2010. It was a really fascinating but sober place. The park wardens were lovely and really engaged with dylan. A documentary and museum told us a well balenced account of the history.

In 1868 General Custer and troppers of the 7th Cavalry attacked the sleeping village of Chief Black Kettle. There were many Indians deaths including the Chief and his wife. He had been and advocate for "peace with the white-man" despite what he had witnessed at the earlier massacre at Sand Creek. There are now efforts being made to try to recount history accurately in a non biased way and with the help of the descendents from the Native Cheyennes. We left with much to contemplate on the drive into Texas.

We opted for the Amarillo KOA campsite with a pool as it was so hot, but it was sadly being repaired so we hung out in the play park instead. Saw 2 other Cruise America Rvs, a German couple, and a Swiss couple. Enjoyed the evening breeze. Then, the motocycle races started!

Eureka Springs to Tulsa OKLAHOMA.

Track. Dust can't kill me. Woody Guthrie.

" I am out to sing songs that will prove to you that this is your world and that if it has hit you pretty hard and knocked you for a dozen loop, not matter what colour, what size you are, how you are built, I am out to sing the songs that make you take pride in yourself, and in your work. And the songs that I sing are made up for the most part by all sorts of folks just about like you." Woody Guthrie.

Day 62.

We had a leisurely morning and then walked around the homestead from the 1930s and the lookout of the river. We then left and drove further north towards Eureka Springs. It is a great spot, quite liberal and descirbed as 'an island of democratic blue in a sea of republican red'. We enjoyed the tasting rooms selection of olive oils and balsamic vinegars before going down to the historic town centre for lunch.

We walked about the hippy shops and chatted to a busker and generally soaked up the vibe.

We felt compelled to stay and used the extra time in the afternoon at Wanderlust RV Park to tackle the waste tank cleaning...Mmmm, before having a dip in the pool. The internet was again frustrating slow so we made a rough plan of action for the following day including another departure to make some progress before the boys woke up.






 Day 63.

By 7.30am we had driven 2hrs to the border of Arkansas, Oklahoma, Missouri and notfar from Kansas.  We had breakfasts and showers in the car park of the Cherokee Visitors Centre. We crossed into Oklahoma onto Route 66 and detoured for our first road side attraction - the worlds largest totem pole. Nothing to write home about really but free and a break from the road.

Then we had a slightly stressful arrival into Tulsa as Sol was ready for his feed slightly before becs had finished driving but after some lunch for all we all recovered and made our way into the Woody Guthrie Centre. It was opened last month and a really fantastic interactive experience. It had elements throughout Woodys life and information about him, his writings and paintings as well as music. He was a colourful charector with politics and insights before his time. He married 3 times before sadly dying from the hereditary Huntingtons disease. He influenced Bob Dylan, Pete Seegar and Billy Bragg to name but a few.

 We drove on along route 66 to the interpretive centre at Chandler and whilst we were in there the sky turned black and the lady told us if we were in an Rv park downtown to head to the high school gymnasium in the event of a tornado. Pete and becs both decided a night in a motel would be in order! The next hour was a roller coaster as we drove towards Oklahoma City, headlong into the storm, trying to find a motel or hotel. Eventually we ended up in the Brickwork area of downtown OKC. Pete had felt a bit apprehensive driving as the storm was approaching fast and becs quickly felt nervous too after going into a hotel to find it totally rammed full. The recent tornado last week affected part of the city and killed 24 people and caused much damage so all the rooms were either booked out to the displaced families or to people who were staying to see the tornado-relief concert next door hosted by Oklahoma's Blake Shelton.

Luckily, there was one room free in the Marriott Courtyard down the road (right next to the concert) and we got a massive discount and to park the Rv right outside. In all the chaos around the rain and concert we also fell on our feet as our room service got forgotten and they ended up giving it to us for free. We were able to watch TV and listen to the concert in luxury!

Cabot ARKANSAS to Buffalo River.

Track. Down to the river to pray-Alison Krauss.
"One touch of nature makes the whole world kin" William Shakespeare.

Day 60.

Left at 5am and before the boys were awake we had arrived in Cabot Arkansas, just outside Little Rock.

We had a waffle house breakfast and showered in the car park of a supermarket after Pete and Dylan had topped up on groceries, At 10am we arrived at Jim and Honey-Sues house, a couple that we met in LA.

We were so grateful to sit on sofas and been cooked for and to use the washing machine etc. Dylan really enjoyed an intense dose of televison,  and Solomon lots of cuddles.

We went to get some strawberries from the pick ur own but it was closed so decided to get some wine. We had to cross the county line as the county we were in was a dry one. We passed countless churches as now in the thick of the Bible Belt but alas the liquor stores were also closed. We had a lovley evening chatting before sleeping inthe RV on their front driveway.

 Day 61.

Woke up later than expected feeling really well rested. Jim cooked us breakfast and then we said our goodbyes. There were tornado warnings on the television but the area at risk is unavoidable as so vast so we were advised to carry on and just check on the reports.

We had a good run up to Buffalo River National Park and watched a great film on the area in the vistors centre before moving into our spot for the night in the 12 dollar campsite. We went down to the river at Tyler Bend and swam in the slow flowing pools.

Pete spotted a creature on the cliff face which later caused much controversy amongst the rangers as it looked like a beaver (or indeed a baby bear!) but turned out to be a ground-hog or woodchuck. We had a nice bonfire and were visited by risky the racoon and about 5 other friends.

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Chatanooga TENNESSEE to Nashville

Track. Kenny Rogers - The Gambler.
" Country music isnt a guitar, it isn't a banjo, it isnt a melody, it isnt a lyric, its a feeling." Waylon Jennings.

Day 57.

It almost felt like a weekend having a normal lie-in and casual breakfast. A really lovely place with our own private playpark again and bathhouse. We did the usual dumping and loading and then were on our way to Chatanooga, as in chatanooga choo choo.

A brief note about the actual driving.....it has certainly altered since we crossed west to east, all cocky about how easy it was. Now we are finding Solomon only sleeps for 30 mins at a time and then time is spent jiggling and cooing and holding up as he only really likes the standing position at the moment. The moments where pete and becs get to sit and relax and chat in the front are now diminished, and more frequent are the shouts of "how much longer" or "I can't complete this level" or "I needa wee!" or "pull in somewhere we need to swap"!. Hence the early am driving. Then we have peace and tranquility, despite feeling knackered. Usual road trips would involve the driver getting a pat on the back at the end of each long stint, but we are finding the 'back-shift' the harder deal! 

This particular day we detoured off the Interstate to visit Barnsley Gardens. Thought it would be a nice place for a break and it was but we lowered the tone somewhat as it was a very exclusive golf resort designed by Jim Fazio.  We utilised their facilites, swanky playpark and sol had a fresh nappy in the very nice restrooms and then we left before we were asked to!

Chatanooga lies just into Tenessee and was a really great spot. We parked up by the Aquarium and river and then got on board one of the free electric trolleys that do the down town loop to see the 'choo choo' the oldest railway line in the states.

It was from Cincinnatini 1880 to Chatanooga and opened the first major link in transportation from the north to the south. After causing some disruption in the giftshop we had some more commotion as Dylan fell off the train and sustained a really bad baddy. It was soon forgotten when we stuck a couple of quarters in a small train roundabout.

Later we had a great pizza in Mellow Mushroom which also happened to have 1 dollar wine night on. Dylan swam in the stream in his pants on the walk back to the rv and we slept at the lovely Raccon Mountain park. We had a reasonable internet connection so watched the second film of the trip 'Glory' about the American CivilWar.



Day 58.

 Chatanooga is steeped in civil war history so we decided to soak some of this up by driving to the top of Lookout Mountain where a particularly bloody battle had occurred. It was amazing to us that the whole 4yr campaign had started over the abolishion of slavery and that the Confederate and Unionist armies had lost 1 million able bodied men in combination.

There was a fantastic painting comissioned at the time on display and a lovely park with cannons and views across the city and beyond. We then went to Camping World to sort out some chemicals for the sewage system and get the oil changed. Late afternoon we set off for Nashville.

We arrived in Two Rivers RV park just as the party was getting started with a free BBQ and keg of beer, topped off by a live Country Music performance by Duke Mitchell who played until late. Memorial weekend was being celebrated and we saw all the veterans getting their American flags. Dylan had a good dance and was rewarded with a personalised dedication. A total bonus of an evening.

 Day 59 (25th May)  

We parked in the city centre and boarded a trolley bus tour around Nashville. Notable stops along the way were; Honky-tonk row, where all country performers must cut their teeth, Music row, including RCA Victor where Roy Orbison, Elvis, Dolly Parton, Jonny Cash and many others had all recorded records, the Parthenon, Centennial and Bicentennial Parks and The Ryman.

We hit a f9w bars (to use the restrooms!) hung out with some batchelorette parties and had lunch in Jimmy Buffets Margaritaville before visiting the Country Music Hall of Fame.

 There were some amazing exhibits including Elvis' s gold plated car with 40 layers of diamond encrusted paint.

It's what we're going toget for the vans next respray. Got back to a parking ticket and a tricky exit from the car park but were soon on the 'music highway' to Memphis.

We spent the night at Tom Saywers Mississippi park. It had been under 4 ft of water 3 days previously and was literally right on the banks of the fast flowing river. We enjoyed the look out from the treehouse.